By Cheryl Tiu
Asian cuisine comprises flavor profiles that run the gamut from sweet, spicy, sour, salty, bitter to umami—with many dishes combining several in one. The expanse and combinations can be intimidating for many when considering how (or even whether) Asian flavors can be enjoyed with wine.
“The biggest misconception about Indian food is that it is fiery and spicy, hence too dominant or unsuitable to pair with wines,” says Sonal Holland, India’s first and only Master of Wine. Additionally, a lot of people think that “Chinese food is strong, oily, ridden with MSG, and not suitable for wine pairing,” notes Bernard Chan, director of wine at the Four Seasons Hong Kong.
Filipino food is often thought to be best paired with sweet wine, since locals tend to have a sweet palate, according to Pierre Angeli Addison, President of the Philippine Sommelier Association.
“[In Singapore,] in a climate well-suited for white / rosé drinking, the bulk of consumers opt for big heavy reds instead,” observes Matthew Chan, beverage director at Michelin-starred Nouri. “I have come to understand that this is due to local palates being used to rich and heavy flavors from the high use of herbs and spices. Interestingly though, the tannins in the wine do not pair well with the spices in the dishes.”
We speak with some of the top sommeliers in their respective regions who share their recommended wine pairings with some of our favorite Asian cuisines:
“The predominant Taiwanese flavors are sweet and salty with a bit of spiciness in the south,” shares Thomas Ho, co-founder of Taiwan Academy of Professional Sommeliers, executive director of Taiwan Sommelier, and instructor at National Kaohsiung University of Hospitality and Tourism. “Taiwan has been influenced by Hokkien, Cantonese, Hakka and Japanese cultures, so the cuisine is colorful and flavorful with the use of soy sauce, garlic, ginger and fermented sauces.”
Ho, who is also a sommelier consultant for Liberté Restaurant, adds, “Many people think the best wines to pair with Taiwanese seafood dishes would be dry white or sparkling wines. Actually, the sauces and cooking methods transform the seafood. If soy sauce or a heavy spicy sauce is used, often a light-bodied red wine or high acidic wine would pair better.”
Ho’s recommendations include:
Steamed Red Sea Crab with Vin Jaune (Savagnin)
Winter is crab season in Taiwan and the biologically aged yellow wine, Vin Jaune or Château Chalon, reveals some yeasty aromas like biscuit or cheese, and the wine always pairs well with fully umami seafoods. Also, the acidity can cut through the protein of the crab.
Xiaolongbao (Steamed Dumplings) with Pinot Noir
Xiaolongbao is perhaps the most famous dish from Taiwan, especially from Din Tai Fung restaurant, usually eaten with soy sauce, vinegar and ginger slices. German Pinot Noir features red fruity aromas with a light but balanced body and bright acidity and would make a good combination.
Three Cup Chicken with Black Queen
Three Cup Chicken pairs well with the Black Queen grape, a local variety in Taiwan. The wine shows very intense black fruit flavors with high acid; the wine can match with sugar and fat from every dish, and the bright acid can cut through oily dishes and cleanse the palate.
Pineapple Cake with Golden Muscat
The pineapple cake is one of the most famous souvenirs in Taiwan, and this is great with a local, world-class fortified sweet wine. The Vino Formosa Madeira-style wine from Shu-Sheng Leisure Domaine in Taichung, Taiwan won a gold medal at the International Wine Tasting Competition in France in 2019. If you are ever fortunate enough to visit Taiwan this is a must-try!
